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TOPIC: Painting Latex
#1705
Painting Latex 8 Years, 7 Months ago Karma: 12  
Hi

What's the best kind of paint to use when painting a prop coated in latex? I need something metalic, but I'm guessing it needs to be flexible, which discounts car paint?

For smaller, non-metalic areas, is acrylic mixed into the liquid latex any good?

If anyone knows or knows any good websites, that's be just grand!

Cheers
Phil.
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Last Edit: 2009/05/05 11:10 By philwood.
 
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#1707
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 7 Months ago Karma: 14  
I've just started experimenting with this actually after useful advice from Shaun.

I've made myself a helmet badge for Toshiro and I painted it with latex with acrylic paint mixed in and it's worked a treat. It's nice and flexible.
I've also got some isoflex to coat it with but I did a test on a spare weapon and it's come out a bit glossy so not sure about that. Maybe I need to stir the isoflex...

I bought the latex from some hobby store way out SE so can't help you on that one.

L8R,
Adam.
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#1710
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 7 Months ago Karma: 7  
From what I know (and that isn't much!) mix the paint into the latex and away you go. In the old days most weapon makers used citadel paints (chainmail I think) to get a good steel colour, however, the gold and the bronze citadel paints had something in them that degraded the latex over time so it became hard and brittle, this took a couple of years though.

You can speak to Artyfakes either direct or on their facebook page as they have been helpful with peoples enquiries in the past.
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#1712
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 7 Months ago Karma: 0  
Acrylics are probably among the better paints to mix in. Start out with a few drops and stir it up to see if it is dark enough, and add more as needed. It is recommended that you test the paint on a sample and let it dry first, as the color tends to darken as the latex dries.

Check the ingredients in the latex as metallic colors tend to include metals such as copper, and cuprous paints will, rather quickly, deteriorate the latex.

Hope this helps.

Chris
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#3493
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 4 Months ago Karma: 8  
Does anyone know if you can paint over all ready painted props.
I got a staff and want to change the colour of the ball on the end of it
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#3497
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 4 Months ago Karma: 14  
I'm not an expert but I'd imagine you could just put latex with paint in it straight over the old stuff after a bit of cleaning of the surface.

I've painted a pattern on my shield which seems to have worked pretty well.

L8R,
Adam.
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#3499
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 4 Months ago Karma: 11  
adamtennant wrote:
I've also got some isoflex to coat it with but I did a test on a spare weapon and it's come out a bit glossy so not sure about that. Maybe I need to stir the isoflex...


You can use Talc on the isoflex when it is almost dry, this will remove the glossyness...
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#3501
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 4 Months ago Karma: 1  
Alex,

You will generally get better results if you strip the latex from the part of the prop that you wish to repaint. You could just repaint over the top but if the weapon has been properly finished (isoflexed etc.) then the latex will not adhere as well as it otherwise would and may well begin to flake off after a while. If there are any details they may well be obscured if you don't remove the old latex as more coats is better than less.

Cheapo acrylics from any hobby store are fine for colouring it (remember that the colour will change as it dries though, the colour underneath will have an effect on the final shade too). Games Workshop paints are good as they high a high pigment content - they are considerably more expensive than hobby paints but most of us have it lying around so it is ideal for colours you may only use occasionally. I've heard that ink is also very good but have not used it myself - again lots of pigment in ink usually so strong colours should result.

A very light coat of matt varnish sprayed over the top will remove the shininess of the isoflex - again I've used hobby varnishes designed for model making in the past. Don't go too heavy with it though or it will crack.
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#3503
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 4 Months ago Karma: 14  
Is there some sneaky way of getting latex off foam? I've got a nackered sword I want to completely refurbish but the latex is REALLY difficult to get off and generally takes some of the foam off with it.

As far as Isoflex goes, what's the deal with Talc Rob? That doesn't seem like something that would make it matt... Do you just sprinkle talc on it? Weird. Might go for the matt spray can option instead.

L8R,
Adam.
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#3504
Re:Painting Latex 8 Years, 4 Months ago Karma: 1  
If the latex is not too badly degraded it should be a matter of carefully trimming a slit in the latex and then just peeling off.

If the foam has become really stuck to the latex then a) the foam is degrading and it's probably best to rebuild completely or b) the maker sprayed adhesive of some sort onto the foam prior to latexing. Slow picking is the only solution I can think of to this.

I've never really had an issue with latex sticking to the foam in any major way - is it the open celled blue foam? If it is scrap it; that stuff is a right pain. The black closed cell stuff that Alex White (and Jon Peck) uses seems to be very good for longevity and can take several rebuilds/repaints. Some of the monster weapons have been re-latexed more times than an amsterdam fetish madam.
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